Finally, Enchantments in Fall

It's been several years coming, but I finally made it to the Enchantments during larch season. The Enchantments are a spectacular area in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in the central Cascades that are so popular that there is a lottery months in advance to get overnight permits. Since so many people don't get permits (I've tried unsuccessfully for years), it's common to visit the area as an 18-mile day hike. While that's a hefty hike for many people, especially with 5000 feet of elevation gain, that is not the only limiting factor. There are often fires in the area that cause trail closures, or early season storms that affect accessibility.

Larches are a rare deciduous conifer, meaning they make cones and look like evergreen trees, but their needles actually turn orange and fall off in the autumn. The contrast of the yellow/orange foliage in the alpine environment of white rocks and blue lakes is absolutely stunning. But it's a narrow window of a few weeks when the larches are at their peak before they drop their needles, adding to the tricky timing.

Larches!

Exactly four years ago to the day, I wrote about trying to go in 2013. I made it in 2014 in early September, with the intention of going back for the larches. But then in 2015 and 2016 I was doing research for a hiking book and didn't do any hikes that weren't for my book. Behold, by 2017 my schedule had freed up enough that it was possible!

However, last Saturday when I was planning to go with some friends, the weather was not cooperating, with forecasts of snow and high winds. Instead, I saw a weather window on Tuesday before more snow showers rolled in Tuesday night, and decided to take it! I knew the route and I was fine hiking it alone, envisioning a solitary day of getting lost in thought.

Map from here

One of the other challenges of doing the whole through-hike is that it's a point-to-point route, so it works best to do with friends, bring two cars, and do a car shuttle between the trailheads. Above you can see a rough map of the red trail starting on the left, going up to Lake Colchuck (starting the blue line), ascending the steep Aasgard (aka Colchuck) Pass, passing by numerous high-country lakes the Enchantments Core, and then dropping back down for a loooooong descent from Snow Lakes back to Icicle Creek Road.

Since I was by myself, I decided to wait at the Snow Lakes trailhead for any kind souls already doing a car shuttle, and get a ride to the upper trailhead. I arrived at 5:30 a.m. and waited with hot coffee, listening to Ranchero music on the radio, trying to stay alert. I didn't see anyone for an hour, but finally at 6:30, two cars pulled up.

It was two local men from Wenatchee and one of the guy's two daughters, in their late teens/early twenties. They let me squeeze in as we bumped our way up toward the upper trailhead. Once there, we met two other hikers who were just getting on the trail.

Arriving Colchuck Lake

We all played leap frog as we ascended the first few miles, basically hiking the same pace and passing each other as we took breaks. By the time we came out of the trees and reached the breathtaking Colchuck Lake, we all took a snack break in the same spot and decided to head up Aasgard Pass together. I could have done it alone if needed, but it just felt safer to be around other people. We picked our way around the rim of the lake over the snow-covered boulders, put on traction devices, and made our way steadily up toward 7,840 feet.

Looking up the route to Asgard Pass

The seven of us ended up hiking together the whole way. It was a great impromptu group and nice to have buddies for such a long day. We lucked out with the weather for this time of year--a bit of grey, snow showers, and wind, but for the most part had comfortably cool temps and even some blue skies.

Looking down on Colchuck as we make our way up Aasgard Pass

Pretty waterfalls as it snows

Starting the descent toward Snow Lakes

The group stopped for a snack break

The end of the day was lovely, with golden evening light illuminating bands of larch in the distance. We were still hiking out as darkness fell, and all switched on our headlamps. We finally made it back to the Snow Lakes trailhead around 8:30, exhausted and very content.